Adventure On The Dempster

The Dempster Highway…We had been hearing stories from motorcyclists about ‘The Dempster’ since before we entered Canada over three months ago. Stories of muddy roads, slick clay, snow in the summer, crashed bikes, and ruined trips. And other stories of beautiful scenery, amazing wildlife, and an epic unpaved road for adventure motorcyclists. Here is our own story of The Dempster…

The first one hundred miles were beautiful – the scenery, the road condition and the wildlife (we saw a grizzly bear eating berries 10 feet off the highway). However, it was cold…with temperatures below freezing! After carrying packet hand warmers for 3 months; we finally felt we really needed to use them and they were amazing. Our first major obstacle was when they closed one of the ferries due to high waters. We were stuck waiting two days for the river level to go down before we could take the ferry and continue north. When we eventually reached Inuvik we had to wait another three days for the rain to stop before our bid for the Arctic Ocean could be attempted.

Finally, we started on the last section of road between Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk. We found ourselves driving through mile after mile of deep mud in first gear. It was the hardest riding we have done on the trip thus far. After fourteen miles of pure mud we stopped and seriously discussed turning around if the road conditions did not improve. Which would have kept us from reaching the Arctic Ocean because the weather forecast for the next few days was more rain! We decided to go a bit farther and immediately, thank God, the road improved dramatically!

Sharon’s Section → Just moments after things were looking up Chris realized that he had left his backpack (with his wallet) at a gas station two hours back. It was a terrible feeling. We knew we had to turn back right away in hopes that the backpack was still there. As we dejectedly turned our bikes and rode south again (with all that mud facing us anew) Chris realized that any four-wheeled car would get there long before us, so we pulled over and flagged down the first south-bound vehicle. We explained the situation to Angus and Freida and asked if they could stop at the gas station and check for the backpack. They said no problem and urged us not to turn around. Freida told Sharon, “You have to keep going, it is so beautiful! Don’t worry about the backpack, we will take care of it.” And they did!

After this emotional roller coaster, we finally reached ‘Tuk’. It took us four hours to travel only 87 miles! But we had made it to the Arctic Ocean and so of course we had to jump in the water (and jump immediately back out :)! A woman known as ‘Grandma’ offered to let us change clothes at her home and warm up before and after – so generous! That night when we returned to Inuvik, Angus delivered our backpack right to our campsite…it was such a relief! Experiencing the kindness of strangers, especially when you are in distress, is one of the greatest blessings and joys of traveling!

Our return trip from the Arctic Ocean was much faster than our way up. We had discovered the forks on Sharon’s motorcycle were leaking oil. Additionally, snowfall was predicted in three days time and wanted to avoid driving in it at all costs. Well, it didn’t work, it started snowing one day earlier and we awoke on Eagle Plains to 2 inches of snow on our tent! And it was still August! Since four more days of snow were forecast we decided to leave and try to make it to Dawson City before nightfall. Because of the continual snowfall and bitter cold temperatures we were forced to stop every ten miles or less to warm up. Sometimes we would jump up and down and run around on these stops to warm our bodies! Eventually, the altitude dropped, the snow stopped falling and the sun came out (a 45 degree temperature change in six hours) – Sharon is certain this was in answer to her many prayers made with frozen lips. From there we were able to continue much more quickly and we reached Dawson City mostly intact and covered in about 20 pounds of mud, dirt, and dust courtesy of the Dempster Highway. We were absolutely exhausted and so glad to get a roof over our heads from an amazingly generous Couchsurfing host, Melodie. It is a challenge we will never forget, but currently have no desire to repeat. And we are very thankful for all of those praying and thinking of us on this trip, we feel loved and know God protected us and provided for us through all the adversity.

Love,

Chris & Sharon